Errors!, Errors!

Having some fun with the printer this past few weeks. many, many fails

Lightly used, honest

Some possible lessons learned….

1 – Don’t mix Resin brands and pigments in untested combinations

I’d ordered a bunch of ‘expired’ Elegoo translucent green resin, going ridiculously cheap, (like 1/3rd the price it should be) it prints FANTASTICALLY…BUT

….I normally use Anycubic Clear, just because it’s what i started with, and it works.

I also add various pigments from http://resin8.co.uk

Mixing in an old batch of C64 Brown with the new Elegoo didn’t really work. I had 6 failures in a row – which i’d assumed was the FEP or me doing something silly / bad levelling . The 7th failure punctured the FEP! At that point i’d realised what i’d done (mixing all the stuff together) so, ordered some new Clear resin. I got a perfect print straight away!

The thing you see above is me, changing the supports (finally) after having issues with the old base layer being too thick and seperating from the build plate. I’d gotten around this by using longer base exposures, but still, had more failures than I’d like.

Hopefully now i’ve new FEP, new resin, and spent a couple of hours doing the supports properly, I’ll get a fresh print tomorrow!

anyone good with QMK?

My next issue – as you can see above…QMK. I spent weeks learning how to, and setting up QMK on my old laptop, which the kids smashed.

QMK has moved on a little it seems as now there’s a dedicated QMK MSYS32 installation…BUT, it doesn’t compile my old keyboard layout. if there’s anyone good with QMK out there, give me a shout!. I’ve no doubt I can get things working again to work on the code a little, just pressed for time for the next month or two and, i’m getting the coding itch this past few days 😛

Quick trick for supports for resin

Who knows if it’ll work yet, but whilst trying to support a large, flat, thin surface for printing, I found that the slicing software didn’t really seem to ‘get it’

So, I tricked it a little by adding the seeds for supports inside Fusion360

Essentially this is just creating a grid of ‘support tips’ and merging them with the wanted body.

The slicer software sees these tiny sticky-outy bits and has no choice other than to add supports to them

alternatley, they can serve as a grid for you to add some manual ‘heavy duty’ supports and surround with more medium duty ones

This is a large flat lower part of a case.

Angle it by 45 degrees. This makes it short enough to print, and easy to support and add some ‘zits’ on a grid

Closeup of zits on a grid

By adding an easy ‘pattern’ of 0.5mm high by 0.1mm diameter zits, I trick Lychee into supporting those areas.

The End result – Evenly spaced ‘starter’ supports that can be manually supplemented. This ensures that no points of the model will be droopy.

I’ve started with a grid around 10x10mm. no reason why this grid can’t be a bit smaller, just some experimenting needed

C64 Mini Keyboard Kit – Progress on stock

Hi All,

Quick update –

Arduino’s are still stuck in Limbo. I received 50 incorrect ones a long while back, ordered another 50 and they’ve been stuck somewhere in the UK for a couple of weeks now. I did order 10 locally at about 2x the price I normally pay to work through some of the waiting list, but that exhaused my supply of PCB’s

So, I ordered back at the beginning of February some more PCB’s

They arrived yesterday, and, I quickly soldered one up to test, so I can start ‘kitting up’ the keyboard kits.

I may have discovered an issue with the way that i’m Using EASYEDA, which has recently shown up in an EASYEDA update….it could be a bug, or a behaviour change, but, it’s B0rked my PCB!

This will set back the kit availability a couple of weeks whilst I address it and get new boards made. I know what the issue is, I can re-create it and have a work around to order more PCB’s so it’s no major worry

Here’s the C64 Keybaord matrix that i’m using. I’ve always used number prefixes for the number keys. i.e. if it’s A, I’ve used the PREFIX A, 1, Prefix 1, etc , etc.

Something changed in EASYEDA a couple of months ago which now means that Prefixes with a single digit number now all seem to tie their nets together.

Here’s the resulting PCB – Note, the nets for the centre pins are all the same!

I didn’t spot this in the one that I just had made! and despite the thoroughly heroic efforts of the JLCPCB staff to fix a couple of cockups i’d made , I have to now trash this batch .

Here’s what happens when I select the Net – ALL the numbers light up as they’re all connected!. oops

Ah well, off to learn a little more about EASYEDA, quite an expensive mistake though, but this shows why, when you make changes, testing is important.

You can imagine how amused I was when I discovered that EVERY key worked on my board, except the number keys, which only typed 0 or 9 !

In other news – I purchased one of these

An Ultrasonic Cleaner – Dual Frequency 28KHz and 40KHz. I’ll do another post about it later.

All i can say now is WOW – No need for the wash and cure station now! – this thing superbly and consistently cleans the prints, giving a good surface finish. Prior to this, it was impossible to get a good finish on every key, every time. Now, i’m 4 prints in , and 3 are perfect, 1 is crap due to over-cleaning! I’m dialled in and ready for production

Anycubic Photon Print Bed drainer STL – posted to Thingiverse

Whilst developing the Commodore 64 mini keycaps and iterating the prints, it came clear that the caps are little buckets that hold quite a lot of resin.

I’ve been holding the keyboard over the tray to drain all this resin out, and it takes “ages”

So, when you can use CAD and have a few 3D printers , you go and spend time developing a widget to optimise the amount of time holding a build plate at an angle!

And by “spend time”, and “optimise”, I mean, take longer doing in CAD than the total amount of time that would have been spent holding the bed in the first place

I present….

60 degrees! version 1

Total amount of time in CAD, and reworking, maybe 3 hours…

Total amount of time holding a bed to drain, maybe 3 minutes.

Number of beds to hold to recoup time in CAD…60!

So, after 60 prints, I’ll have broken even on the time invested in making the thing!

Here it is in action!

Version 1 wasn’t as optimal, it needed shifting over to the left by about 30mm to give far more clearance on the case for everyone not printing 25mm high keycaps to be able to use.

60 degrees, version 2!

Released on Thingiverse – right here – for free! works a treat.

Anycubic Photon Mono Teardown 3

Only some thoughts on this one –

The PCB inside the Mono looks to be a custom PCB.

However, it’s widely known that Anycubic uses Chitu Systems drivers and panels

When I cracked open the Mono – I found really only 3 chips of significance…

An ANLOGIC FPGA – EF2L45LG144B –

and

GD32F307 Arm Cortex M4 controller

Having a nose around ChiTu’s website found this little device – The ChiTu L M1

https://home.cbd-3d.com/hardware/controller-board/chitu-l-m18-9-4k-monochrome/

Link to User Manual –

Have a look at page 12 / 73 and what do you spot ? – Item 8 – an ANOLOGIC EL2F Series FPGA Chip!!

AND….an STM32F407ZET6

Cortex®-M4 32-bit RISC core operating at a frequency of up to 168 MHz.

Sound familiar?

GD32F307 Arm Cortex M4 controller – Cortex®-M4 Core @ 120 MHz

What this means? – No idea 😛

BUT, what this could mean…

1- The Anycubic Photon Mono board is possibly capable of using a 4K LCD

also, i’ve spotted that Chitu systems sells an ESP8266 module specifically for their boards – it could be that Anycubic plans on selling their own, or just goofed up with the polarity of the header on the board!

And, finally, after all the above, that i’m going to publish anyway, i’ve also spotted

https://shop.cbd-3d.com/product/chitu-l-k1-controller-board-with-32bit-tmc2209-for-lcd-msla-3d-printer/

Which looks practically identical, also has the FPGA and the ARM board and is only 2k!, D’oh!

Anycubic Photon Mono Teardown – Part 1

A first look at the guts

I got myself a Resin Printer!

So, Naturally, before printing with it, I attack it with a screwdriver – or hex driver in this case……..

Here’s the first tear-down and initial dismantling of the brand new Anycubic Monochrome Resin Printer

Here’s the light source

And, some more photos..

Continue reading “Anycubic Photon Mono Teardown – Part 1”

A Broken Rice Cooker :-( (3D Printing to the rescue!

Picked up a Tefal rice cooker when living in Australia. They’re superb, reliable and make great cakes

Highly recommend buying one 🙂

Our latching mechanism broke recently, requiring us to jam some weights on top to ensure the lovely cooked rice goodness continued……….

I Gone Dun Fixed it!

I’m getting a little better at Fusion360 now and my work with the C64Mini keyboard taught me enough about surface modelling to knock up this thingy 🙂

The old one’s at the top………the sticky outy bit snapped.

Now, another rabbit hole though……PLA is quite tough

….Until it’s warmed up.

….Rice cookers get a little warm…

It lasted a couple of weeks at least…

Picked up a roll of ABS, first time I’ll be using it, so wish me luck!. Also i’ll redesign those curves just a little better 🙂

Wanhao D9 – Bed leveling -do this to make it work!

Add M420 S1 after G28

 

Someone on facebook suggested that the stock wanhao Firmware doesn’t handle leveling propertly. They’re right

Check out……..

https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,789128

 

given the 1000’s of people having issues getting the D9 to print properly, there does seem to be something fundamentally wrong with the printer….

 

In your Cura / startup script, find G28

Continue reading “Wanhao D9 – Bed leveling -do this to make it work!”

Wanhao Duplicator 9 – New X Axis parts coming

It’s been a busy personal and work life for the past few weeks so it’s been difficult to ‘tinker’……….I have however made something new!………….. Continue reading “Wanhao Duplicator 9 – New X Axis parts coming”

Aluminium beds – some thoughts on levelling

The Wanhao printer bed is made of Aluminium, below this is a flexible heating element.

It’s been widely reported that the D9 doesn’t level very easilly, Here’s why people are having issues….

Aluminium expands when heated!

If you’re having ‘levelling issues’ ensure to do the electronic bed levelling whilst the bed is hot! – (pre-heat to typical printing temperature first)

 

Anyways, some math.

Here’s a datasheet for the Aluminium I purchased for my carriage upgrade

Two things I note here –

Physical Property Value
Density 2.71 g/cm³
Thermal Expansion 24 x10^-6 /K

Density – Steel (which the carriage is made of) is generally around the 7 – 8 g/cm³ – or Three times that of Aluminium! – win there, I can use a sheet of aluminium Three times thicker than the steel on the carriage and have the same weight (in theory)

Thermal Expansion – Translated this means that Aluminium expands by 24 micrometers per millikelvin. Also known as 0.000024 meters per degree

 

How does this affect the D9 Printbed?

When heated, the 325 x 325 x 2mm thick aluminium bed  becomes a bit larger

………How large?

 

Here follows some very rough calcuations……..

Continue reading “Aluminium beds – some thoughts on levelling”

Chinese ‘cheap’ clone linear rails MGN12 Beware and a teardown

The Cheapy ‘Hiwin’ clone rails and blocks arrived a while back and they haven’t really dissapointed. By that, I mean, I kinda got what I was expecting. Still, only a small premium paid and 3 workable carriages / rails……

Continue reading “Chinese ‘cheap’ clone linear rails MGN12 Beware and a teardown”

D9 Linear rails upgrade – Bed

d9 202 wide base by 120 deep

I’ve found a solution to having a fairly stable base that’s wider than the 60mm square wheel carriages Wanhao uses…

It’s possible to create a 120mm wide base, IF you offset the mounting of the bearing blocks from the centre as can be seen above and below…

Continue reading “D9 Linear rails upgrade – Bed”

Z Offset problems

After the new 1.64B firmware, I’m having some issues with the printer….it starts printing about 1mm in the air……lets investigate

 

I’ve levelled the printer bed, manually, then autolevel

I’ve set the Z offset during the levelling process

I try printing, it’s 1mm high in the air and refusing to stick

 

Home the Z axis on the Printer, send this command with Pronterface

G0 Z0

find out what the Z reading is and check what the offset is

SENDING:M114
X:10.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:797 Y:0 Z:17
SENDING:M851
echo:Z Offset : -0.20abl_enabled

that’s telling me that at Z home, i’ve got Z = 17 with -0.2 offset, so, Z should read 16.8   Lets try resetting back to defaults

SENDING:M502
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
>>> m501
SENDING:M501
echo:V07 stored settings retrieved (590 bytes; crc 9778)
echo:  G21    ; Units in mm
echo:  M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo:  M200 D3.00
echo:  M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo:  M92 X79.80 Y79.60 Z400.50 E94.20
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo:  M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo:  M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E500
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
echo:  M204 P500.00 R800.00 T500.00
echo:Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_ms> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>
echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E1.00
echo:Home offset:
echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Auto Bed Leveling:
echo:  M420 S1
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo:  M145 S0 H200 B60 F0
  M145 S1 H240 B80 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo:  M301 P33.41 I1.47 D189.27
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo:  M851 Z-0.20

 

Hmm

I have no idea what’s going on! looks like the Z offset isn’t ‘sticking’ (Much like some of my prints!!)

 

Either way, something’s a little inconsistent 😦

 

3D Printing – Practical stuff…a useful item made!

img_7366-1

Iteration……it’s all about trying, adjusting, trying again. from the first basic drawing on the left and the first print….right through to the Rev6 print (that’s now REV 7)

The tall bit pushes against the conservatory roof…the little ‘hook’ holds it in place on a small ledge, the long dangly bit presses against the wall and holds the LED strip….REV 7 increases the length of the sticky uppy bit on the right!

Back a few weeks ago, I purchased some LED strings to light up the conservatory during the winter months

LED STRING

Also purchased a few types of incredibly sticky double sided stuff….they just would not stick……The sticky pads stuck to the PVC windows just fine, but whatever teflon type material the clear IP tubes are made of, well, it’s better than teflon, nowt’ll hold that up….

Enter my shiny new 3D printer….A few brackets will hold them up nicely!

I used some Playdoh to get an idea of the outline of the PVC Ledge that I could clip some holders to…Made some drawings and knocked up something in Tinkercad

LED BRACKET

On the left is my first foray into 3D cad in nearly two decades….I’ve merged them to show the Rev7 bracket that i’m now to print….

I’m amazed really, in modern times, a 3D printer enables you to take some measurements….Create an item, try for fit….re-design the item, try again…..rinse, repeat….in just a few hours!. 7 iterations of trying, wiggling about an ‘guessing’ what needed changing and it’s done (till I improve and get to rev 10 :-P)

I’ve a long print running, but when it finishes, i’ll print up about 20 of these in clear filament and show the final product installed….can’t wait!

 

D9 Printer Bed Levelling – Done Right

 

bed-leveling-on-Ultimaker2-1.jpgFinally – Wanhao have released a decent firmware – V0.164(B)

Now, Levelling the bed…..

 

There’s LOADS of videos, methods ,etc out there….this way is SIMPLE, CONSISTENT and reliable

Make sure your printer head is clean and free from cooled plastic

MAKE SURE THE BED IS CLEAN...(I’m using baby wet wipes, but they dont’ seem to be the best, i’ll need to try isopropyl alcohol like the old timers are)

How to clean….Use a sponge, soap and water………that’s it!

1 – LEVEL the Z axis – use a ruler / visual marks on the back, whatever, make sure the bar is level

2 – Use the menu to go into  the LEVEL selection

3 – Get the Z axis offset correct by using a piece of paper so it’s just gripped by the head

4 – TURN OFF THE PRINTER (yes, TURN IT OFF, DO NOT CLICK NEXT)

5 – MANUALLY move the print head to CLOSE (maybe 10mm away from) to the corners…

  • Start on one corner – use the paper between the head and the bed…adjust the screw in that corner till it just grips.
  • Move to the next corner, repeat
  • repeat again
  • repeat again

6 – Go back and check each corner and tweak slightly if necessary

7 – Turn printer on and LEVEL THE BED IN SOFTWARE AS NORMAL……

 

Now, if you really want to be pedantic, you should do this whilst everything’s warmed up to your normal working temperatures!

That’s it, the end

 

 

 

 

Calibration – Part 2……Again!

280 x 280mm

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479352/

After figuring out that 20mm, just ain’t good enough to calibrate, I had a nose around on thingverse….

The largest ‘calibration’ thing I found was the above 280 x 280mm square……..Awesome, that’s good enough, close to 300mm too for maximum calibratory goodness…

Continue reading “Calibration – Part 2……Again!”

Calibration – WYISYG, Don’t use a 20mm Cube for accuracy!

img_7315https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865

 

Lots of basic printing suggested that the front to back measurement was slightly off…so, finally I’ve decided to calibrate the printer….

By, printing a calibration cube! I’ll do it a little differently and record just a bit more information…I’ll measure 3 points for each axis, giving 9 points for the cube….

Continue reading “Calibration – WYISYG, Don’t use a 20mm Cube for accuracy!”

Nozzles!….what a minefield

51NqYBk5p0L

Well, as i’m thinking ahead for a change and have purchased some glow in the dark filament

I’ve now discovered that the stuff is quite abrasive and I really should be thinking about getting some spare nozzles

A quick search for ‘replacement nozzles’ and….err

Continue reading “Nozzles!….what a minefield”

Amazing Price for the Duplicator 9 in the UK – £349 at Box – FREE DELIVERY

I picked mine up for £399 just over 3 weeks ago!.

already it’s dropped by £50………wow!!

https://www.box.co.uk/Wanhao-Duplicator-9_2327623.html

 

boxprice

I get no benefits at all by linking to these guys, just highlighting a superb printer (so far!) for a superb price here in the UK

 

Immediate upgrades – Better wheels x 6 for the Y axis Bed (open builds type, see my other posts) and a better blower fan – <£40 extra and it’s a superb, 24V printer

Technical Stuff – Noise

 

Well, having left the printer on overnight to knock out an urgent print for a friend, I’ve discovered that, it’s a little on the noisy side!

Some googling…….

The Wanhao D9 has FOUR fans!  (yep, FOUR)

One 60x60x15mm fan in the power supply and Three 40x40x10

 

Two of these…AAA HZHZ 4010 MS 24V DC 0.10Amp fans

40mmFAN

One on the extruder, right by the number 7, top yellow arrow

This one is the fan that cools the extruder block

Continue reading “Technical Stuff – Noise”

Delivery and unboxing of the D9 – part 1

It’s HOOOOOOOGE. look at that box!, you can fit a 6 year old child in that (no 6 year old children were harmed in determining that fact)

More pics…

Continue reading “Delivery and unboxing of the D9 – part 1”