Bad prints – Grr, the importance of cooling

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After the old soap and water life’s lesson and getting some fantastic print bed adhesion, the printer ‘developed’ * another problem……………

 

*by developed, I mean, ‘I’m an idiot’…..Probably…………..[just scroll to that bit below to avoid a few paragraphs of waffle

Continue reading “Bad prints – Grr, the importance of cooling”

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Power Consumption and Smart Plugs

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Picked myself up a cheap Wifi Smart Plug

I figured that if Octoprint can monitor the printer remotely…..if I see on video anything spontaneously combusting, I can remotely cut the power too!

I’ll figure out some scripting at some point to allow temperature sensors / smoke sensors to trigger the plug, but for now, it’s just a bit of fun…

For those wanting to know more about these types of plugs, this one on Amazon just happens to be an ESP8266EX with a relay………just like those cheapy sonoff thingies (of which I have two!)

And someone’s already torn one down and documented it – for which I’m grateful as there’s another rabbit hole I don’t have to follow (for now)

Some useless information about power consumption measured with this plug

 

  • 9.5 to 16.6 Watts when Idle – probably a bit more / less when fans kick in?, lets call it 10 Watts
  • 58 Watts when heating the Extruder
  • 247 Watts when heating the Bed(Blimey!)
  • 291 Watts PEAK and settles at 281 whilst pre heating for PLA
  • 13.9 watts when driving X left and right
  • 17.8  Watts when driving just Y / Bed
  • 13.4 Watts when driving Z up and down – which is a suprise really as I’d have thought it would be double X due to two motors
  • 261.4 Watts when Printing – (205 degrees PLA and 60 Bed)
  • alternates from 261.4 to 43 watts whilst printing

So, Overall, it’s not too power hungry…Lets call it 300 watts peak.

Electricity is about 35p per KWh here…..

if you have a 10 hour print, using 300 watts (peak), that’ll cost you about 33p in electricity! in practice, it’ll actually be a bit less as the heating elements aren’t on all the time, they cycle on/off to maintain the temperature!

Summary, run the printer as much as you want!, it’s less than 4P an hour here in the UK!

 

The importance of a Clean bed

 

Bad Bed Bad PLA

Use SOAP AND WATER………

 

 

I’ve a few successful prints under my belt now…..Pics another time……..

For the past few days though, this has been happening………Zero adhesion 😦

Continue reading “The importance of a Clean bed”

Bit of a Teardown and….a 3D model

After having a few minor issues with filament slipping and prints generally being a bit crappy, I figured I’d take stuff apart, always helps me relax…

On the interwebs I was really unable to find any specific detail about the MK10 / MK11 type head that the Wanhao Duplicator 9 uses…

Continue reading “Bit of a Teardown and….a 3D model”

3D Printing – Practical stuff…a useful item made!

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Iteration……it’s all about trying, adjusting, trying again. from the first basic drawing on the left and the first print….right through to the Rev6 print (that’s now REV 7)

The tall bit pushes against the conservatory roof…the little ‘hook’ holds it in place on a small ledge, the long dangly bit presses against the wall and holds the LED strip….REV 7 increases the length of the sticky uppy bit on the right!

Back a few weeks ago, I purchased some LED strings to light up the conservatory during the winter months

LED STRING

Also purchased a few types of incredibly sticky double sided stuff….they just would not stick……The sticky pads stuck to the PVC windows just fine, but whatever teflon type material the clear IP tubes are made of, well, it’s better than teflon, nowt’ll hold that up….

Enter my shiny new 3D printer….A few brackets will hold them up nicely!

I used some Playdoh to get an idea of the outline of the PVC Ledge that I could clip some holders to…Made some drawings and knocked up something in Tinkercad

LED BRACKET

On the left is my first foray into 3D cad in nearly two decades….I’ve merged them to show the Rev7 bracket that i’m now to print….

I’m amazed really, in modern times, a 3D printer enables you to take some measurements….Create an item, try for fit….re-design the item, try again…..rinse, repeat….in just a few hours!. 7 iterations of trying, wiggling about an ‘guessing’ what needed changing and it’s done (till I improve and get to rev 10 :-P)

I’ve a long print running, but when it finishes, i’ll print up about 20 of these in clear filament and show the final product installed….can’t wait!

 

D9 Printer Bed Levelling – Done Right

 

bed-leveling-on-Ultimaker2-1.jpgFinally – Wanhao have released a decent firmware – V0.164(B)

Now, Levelling the bed…..

 

There’s LOADS of videos, methods ,etc out there….this way is SIMPLE, CONSISTENT and reliable

Make sure your printer head is clean and free from cooled plastic

MAKE SURE THE BED IS CLEAN...(I’m using baby wet wipes, but they dont’ seem to be the best, i’ll need to try isopropyl alcohol like the old timers are)

How to clean….Use a sponge, soap and water………that’s it!

1 – LEVEL the Z axis – use a ruler / visual marks on the back, whatever, make sure the bar is level

2 – Use the menu to go into  the LEVEL selection

3 – Get the Z axis offset correct by using a piece of paper so it’s just gripped by the head

4 – TURN OFF THE PRINTER (yes, TURN IT OFF, DO NOT CLICK NEXT)

5 – MANUALLY move the print head to CLOSE (maybe 10mm away from) to the corners…

  • Start on one corner – use the paper between the head and the bed…adjust the screw in that corner till it just grips.
  • Move to the next corner, repeat
  • repeat again
  • repeat again

6 – Go back and check each corner and tweak slightly if necessary

7 – Turn printer on and LEVEL THE BED IN SOFTWARE AS NORMAL……

 

Now, if you really want to be pedantic, you should do this whilst everything’s warmed up to your normal working temperatures!

That’s it, the end