C64Mini working keyboard – The Butchery Part 2

Mmmm, Mini Cake’s been baked

A quick dry overnight and….It’s a success!.

BEFORE this point (or, worst case, at this point) I’d highly recommend you clean the keyboard thoroughly and go, purchase some clearcote / clear lacquer. I haven’t done it yet but will be spraying my next keyboard to get some longevity on the text and paint……...

The mould’s quite bubbly and not really useful for much other than being a support…But, if done with more care – who knows!, Maybe C64Mini Chocolate keyboards?

Next step, Power Tools!

ROUND 1

Mwahahahaha!

Still not entirely sure if it’s even possible to quickly and repeatedly butcher the C64Mini’s keyboard reliably with good quality.

For doing your own / one off’s, this step, you can take as long as you want. if you plan on doing a few though, taking a day or two individually dremmeling out the keys isn’t my idea of fun.

I do have a CNC – so, worst case I’ll have to learn how to actually use it, then I’d just need to make a protective jig, sit the keyboard on and just CNC the keys out. I’m not really in the mood to spend a few weekends firing that workflow up yet

Failure

The Angle grinder wasn’t really a success…..The blade’s too small and the sanding is going to be too uneven. There’s no way this will work .

Round 2………..

Larger surface area = larger chance of evenness?
Too much vibration

Ok, first thoughts, it seems to work, abeit slowly and with making my hand a bit sore….

new sandpaper should do it

At this point, I figured if I use something soft and large, I could hold the keyboard in place and sand it without hurting my hands so much…..

Puzzled over this one for quite a while till I looked down……..

Found an incredibly inefficient lawn cutting method! – Orbital sanding

Seems to have done the trick!…Pressing down into the grass holds the keyboard in place and also helps resist the vibration of the sander, making it sand more efficiently…………Win Win….Also i’ll patent pend using oribital sanders for domestic grass management.

But……

Poor Lawn

I moved to another bit of the lawn to avoid totally destroying a good bit of the grass…….I found that sanding till you can see the blacks of its eyes…….the lines between the keys seems to work well. At this step, you’ll want to remove as much material as possible to avoid so much processing / sanding later on

Do resist the urge to twist / remove the keys, try to let them come out almost by themselves

oops

At this point I’d realised that an average household lawn is actually quite abrasive..Have a look at the whiteness of the edges of the keys!

Oops! – ah well, this is why i’m experimenting, so you don’t have to. I’m going to run with the theme though -these keys look a bit battle worn now, no going back so i’ll probably add a similar theme to my C64mini case 🙂 will be good to relive the old days of creating scenery and my Warhammer 40,000 airbrushing . never really did play it, just enjoyed hacking up the plastics……..Anyways…

Keep sanding, get as much material off as you can (it will save a LOT of time later)

Once you’ve got them all separated, make sure to lay them all out in order so you can admire all the keyboardy keycappy goodness that’s resulted from the dismemberment of an innocent miniature recreation of an 80’s 8 bit home computer.

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Now, go spending several hours in the garden trying to find the most commonly used letter in the English alphabet!

I’d neglected to factor in the ability of these tiny keycaps to fling themselves a considerable distance in various directions whilst being vibrated several hundred times per second.

Suffice to say, if you’re doing the same thing, try to do it in a location where the floors relatively clean and uncluttered

A colourblind person trying to find a brown keycap in a green lawn that’s not too long, but just long enough to expose the also brown ground beneath……..Yeah, not fun.

After an HOUR of searching though………………..Eeeeeeee….A full keyboard

full c64 mini keyboard keycaps!

Next step – post processing. Removing supports.

This step i’d say is the most important. Sand down a bit the bottom and curves of each key. Get rid of all the burrs, bits, etc. you won’t get much of a chance to do this once they’re stuck. Spend a lot of time on this, cleaning each key, just getting it ‘right’

Mini Mould All filled

Once your keys are all looking great and sanded, smooth – arrange them again into a the keyboard layout. Then, one by one, transfer them into the mould.

you’ll wanna make sure you get this part right 😛

I did them line by line, starting left to right. I also had taken a picture of the keyboard prior to refer to. Check twice, place once……………

Now i’ve realised that I haven’t actually considered how to stick these things in! – i’ll need to go research glue, D’oh! gotta pause this for another week of research and buying bits

C64Mini working keyboard – The Butchery Part 1

Time’s progressing and it’s still taking a long time to obtain a satisfactory print of my CAD keycaps. Some quotes have come in and…they’re quite a bit.

so, time to change focus for the short term to let me actually play games on the mini with all the keyboardy goodness that a working keyboard will allow

So, on to some butchering

The Plan….create a plaster of paris negative of the original keyboard – to hold the keys straight when attaching them.

Step 1 – Print out the case design from my last post

Fits like a glove……..or does it?

Step 2 – realise that I’m making a NEGATIVE and the keyboard needs to sit INSIDE the box, ‘upside down’ Redesign and re-print…

Better

Step 3 – Coat liberally in spray oil… Wife wasn’t too happy that I’d used her pricey artisnal olive oil from our trip to Italy, nothing but the best for my Mini though………

Step 4 – Knock up a batch of pancake batter Plaster of paris…About 50 grams of powder and 60ml water worked for mine….not too viscous.

fill the keyboard case just over 1/2 way to measure what you need

Step 5 – Fill up the mould

Screw on the keyboard – making sure the keys are aligned and straight with the F Keys and wait overnight…

Use the holes either side to top up the plaster so it overflows a little

Give the whole combo a dozen or so short sharp drops / knocks on the table to free up any air bubbles

Mmmmmmm….Keyboard Cake?

C64 Mini – Cutting the existing Keyboard Part 1

Did an attempt at a jig to make hacking up your own keyboard just a little easier….

it’s fairly easy to hack up the existing keyboard into bits….(get hacky thingy, cutty thingy, hack, cut…maybe smooth off burrs if you’re feeling artsy)

Getting the brand new hacked up bits of plastic that once looked like a keyboard to sit straight on the switches and resemble the previous keyboard resemblance …..not so much.

Turns out that making things ‘straight’ is hard……..so, some ideas

3D design and print new keycaps with locking mechanisms that work with my chosen keyswitches (still onging, it’s been MONTHS of work)

My first other idea…….. create a form to fill with plaster of paris, press the plastic full keyboard into that form, leave to set…

Remove keyboard and admire a perfect negative image of the keyboard.

Two things that could be done with this

Use that plaster of paris as a form to create resin keycaps (without any lettering) – I’m working on that!

second – it can be used as a perfect ‘form’ to sit the newly butchered keycaps in, fill with epoxy glue, sit keyboard PCB on top and let the keycaps become glued on, all nice and straight like!

it’s fairly easy to export the keyboard PCB outline from EasyEDA as a DXF then import to Fusion, extrude and…voila!

But…There’s an ever so tiny mistake in the image above

That’s the printed version…The holes line up great!

But….

Yeah, the keyboard should be face down!, D’oh!

i’ll see if the snips’ll work

The other thing….

Fits like a glove….

Nice and snug – Note the top row of keys is level…..

Some small design work needed but the idea has promise!. I just need to re-jig the hole widths a little to accommodate the angle of the keyboard better!

I’ve purchased another couple of C64 Minis so that I can improve this jig more. I’m not quite certain where the keys will ‘fall’ once they’re seperated from the base of the plastic moulding.

The more I think about it, i’m thinking that there could be a shedload more work in this jig – one ‘saving grace’ though – due to the way injection moulding works – there’s a slight taper on the existing fake switches. And, I suspect that the rear of them has been modded so that they’re almost perpendicular to the base. this will help the whole mould ‘pop off’ the injection machine…

That also helps me with this jig as it really means that, at the base of the keys, all the keys seem to have the same uniform rear rising, almost perpendicular taper and front curving taper. kinda like the below diagram

That could turn the whole change into just re-extruding the jig key holes at the 8 degree angle of the keyboard as above……..

A Broken Rice Cooker :-( (3D Printing to the rescue!

Picked up a Tefal rice cooker when living in Australia. They’re superb, reliable and make great cakes

Highly recommend buying one 🙂

Our latching mechanism broke recently, requiring us to jam some weights on top to ensure the lovely cooked rice goodness continued……….

I Gone Dun Fixed it!

I’m getting a little better at Fusion360 now and my work with the C64Mini keyboard taught me enough about surface modelling to knock up this thingy 🙂

The old one’s at the top………the sticky outy bit snapped.

Now, another rabbit hole though……PLA is quite tough

….Until it’s warmed up.

….Rice cookers get a little warm…

It lasted a couple of weeks at least…

Picked up a roll of ABS, first time I’ll be using it, so wish me luck!. Also i’ll redesign those curves just a little better 🙂

3D Printering – The Ender 3 Pro….

Just over a year ago I purchased my Creality Ender 3 Pro…an absoloute steal at about £140 after discounts and Topcashback special offer at the time.

I was having so much ‘fun’ with my Wanhao Duplicator 9 that I didn’t open the box for nearly 1/2 a year. and I only fired the thing up a few months ago!

I have to say, I’m impressed. The printer deserves its rabid fanbase following. It printed flawlessly out of the box without any setting up.

It’s surprising the difference having a reliable ‘work horse’ printer makes to the hobby. I need a bit – I just go print it. no faffing about with levelling and bed adhesion.

Till it doesn’t…….

OOps!

Note, if your previously reliable printer seems to under-extrude, even on known great filament – try the extruder arm.

Something seemed ‘off’ when printing standard stuff – almost overnight the printer just seemed to under-extrude, not be reliable and, well, become more like my Wanhao D9 (a bit crap)

Even bizzarely, the printer would print OK over to the left, but under-extrude to the right. Took an hour to diagnose this! When the head was over to the right – it would pull the mechanism slightly which dislodged the arm enough to slip the filament.

Luckily, This extruder tech hasn’t moved in years…….An unassembled, missing parts kit I picked up off facebook a couple of years ago (syntek, sintek or something similar) which itself was a few years old had just the part..(which complete, looks identical to this Aliexpress one …..

Works a treat….

Except….There’s those new fangled ‘dual gear’ type extruders they’re on about….

and….well, I have a LOT more spares upstairs that i’ve gathered!

And, well, if i’m upgrading one extruder drive mechanism, it’s shockingly easy to add a second….

and…

Fortunately (for the Ender 3) , My Wanhao Duplicator 9 decided to ‘blow up’ a bit *Probably assisted by my dual 5015 blower fan mods

See that Poor MOSFET M3 – Right by R12….

So, now, my D’s guts, kinda look like this……..

What’s best! – I now have a working 3D printer that I can use to print parts for my broken 3D printer!

Wooo

Now, looking at dual extruder mods……… – https://www.thingiverse.com/bleugh/collections/3d-printer-carriage

looks like my tinkering time’s filled up again. gotta get designing a ‘fix’ for the D9…and a dual extruder / colour setup……

C64 Mini Keyboard – More CAD

The first mediocre print!

It’s taking way too long, but I think I now have the lettering ‘just right’ – at least on the screen.

This was printed a bit too hastily at 0.08mm layer height on an Ender 3 printer. I’d used a brand new roll of untested filament and didn’t bother changing any settings. – it’s dimensionally ‘spot on’..

I’ve purchased a 0.2mm nozzle for my next trial , it’ll take ages but i’m hoping that those fine details on the characters come out a little better.

Why it’s taking so long……..

I’m learning as I go. I’m ‘tracing’ letters i’m finding on the net, creating them as a new sketch along the whole rows. There’s 4 differently angled rows so each needs to be extruded in a different direction to ‘cut’ the key.

This first run matches the C64 keyboard font as close as I can get. I’ll then ‘archive’ this layout for future use and create a second ‘3D print’ version.

This version will forgo the accuracy of the font and make features much wider, more rounded to allow the characters to come out better once 3D printed. The complex ones like ‘run stop’ won’t ever come out great on a standard filament printer, but the letters already come out pretty good…that’s a win for me!

a full keyboard!

The full keyboard is above – and you can see part of one of the adaptors i’m designing to click them onto the keyswitches. each keycap is hollow. that small grey part will sit inside the keycap

Where the time’s being spent…..

And finally – part of what’s taking so long.

Each key/character is taking on average about 1/2 an hour to an hour to design. Lets say 45 minutes.

65 keys to label

That’s a LOT of minutes…and i’m only getting an hour or two every few nights – a good solid weekend ‘free’ would be great and have this sorted.

On top of that labelling (which is now finished) I have to try to make each letter more legible and easier to 3D print. Generally that means ‘bevels’ everywhere – you can see above that i’ve done ‘Run Stop’ and ‘Shift Lock’ but SHIFT is still to do….it’s not as easy either as ‘copy, paste’ the Shift from Shift lock – that’s a different sized font on a different sketch plane.

Just one example of the issues I’m seeing…The Letter B

The Letter B – trying to create a fillet – rounding off the edges

The Letter B above has an issue with the geometry – just by the 0.1 – there’s a part internally up towards the arrow that shouldn’t be there – that’ll could play havoc with a slicer when set to really small layer heights

B – Alternate view

But, the Fillet also creates a zero thickness surface which looks unsightly and will probably cause issues if I don’t correct it now

So, Back to the sketch

Letter B – The Sketch

As you can see, i’ve kept the characters with few (if any) constraints. this way has been easier to freehand and eyeball as I can drag stuff around till it looks right by ‘locking and unlocking’ lines. most constraints used to create right angles, etc have been removed after to help with the process of making it 3D

Anyways, the ‘issue’ with the fillet seems to be around the place where the two control point splines meet – i’ve highlighted one in blue above.

I re-coincide each spline (have found deleting and un-deleting works, as well as hitting coincident )

That change should hopefully roll back up the timeline to allow me to make the fillet work.

To Create the key lettering I the character by 1mm elsewhere in my workspace, then move it to over the key.

Then extrude the face of the character into the key and ‘cut’ ….

this may seem odd, but it’s a really quick and easy way of consistently creating cutouts on a row of keys and making quick changes later.

That didn’t work, so, jump into surface mode – delete the entire inner arc of the B. Re-create the arc as a ‘patch’. Stitch together the lower part of the B. Then stich the whole keycap, then re-apply fillet and…..Voila…..3/4 an hour later, one filleted B…And a learned workflow if the same thing happens on another key!

Note, as-is, the keyboard fonts are a bit innacurate. I’ve sized everything based upon the smallest characters that need to fit – i.e. run stop, etc. The individual letters could be bigger – but any bigger and they’d look too big compared to those……….

Next steps,

DFM – Design for manufacture.

Just because you design a 3x2mm hole, doesn’t mean it’ll print at 3×2. Generally Filament printers do outer perimeters a little larger, inner perimeters a little smaller. The first few tests i’ve done now prove this. so, After a few months of ‘out of the box working’ on my Ender, I’ve finally gotta bite the bullet and calibrate it. The plan is to create an offset in the CAD file so that I still design the holes accurately based on measurement, BUT, can add a accurate ‘calibration figure’ Fudge figure to make them a little larger or smaller as necessary.

Right now my Printer is doing slightly oval prints – which should be easy enough to sort out if my D9 Adventures were anything to go by

Speaker enclosure design – 3D Printing First step……

Now I’ve decided upon construction of a 3D Printed Transmission Line enclosure I need to figure out just how….

Lets start on google – and…

Audiojudgement.com Website

oh – Marco Reps – another youtube that I subscribe to!

Some Speaker Stuff (copied from …..Speakerboxlite.com )

Presumably, this lot means something which will help to figure out the optimum enclosure-y stuff ‘n thingies.

Continue reading “Speaker enclosure design – 3D Printing First step……”

Speaker enclosures……A rabbit hole…

Blimey, who’d have thought……

Back in the old days, it was as simple as ‘buy a speaker’ , shove it in a box and voila…….

 

Nowadays though…………

http://audiojudgement.com/types-of-enclosures-which-is-the-best/

There’s quite a few, including the following types…………

  • Sealed enclosure
  • Infinite baffle
  • Open Baffle
  • Free-air
  • Bass reflex
  • Ported
  • Vented
  • Bandpass
  • Transmission Line
  • Folded Horn
  • Isobaric

Each has different properties, suited for different things……some are as easy as ‘shove it in a box’, others need complex enclosure geometry and some math………

Now, considering I have 5 speaker drivers waiting to be hooked up, own two 3D printers (and a CNC), Know a bit about Fusion360 and have a penchant for overthinking and overcomplicating stuff (hey, where’s the fun when it’s simple!?)…..I figured, lets learn a little bit about speaker enclosure design……

Turns out, there’s quite a few youtube videos……….

One in particular from a channel that I’d already subscribed to a few months ago…….HexiBase – Can a 3D printed enclosure Get low

Look at the size of that box!……..It uses a Folded Waveguide type resonance chamber for the enclosure…..which appears very similar in design to a ‘Transmission line’ style of speaker.

….Challenge accepted….I’m going to build a small Transmission line speaker!

3D Printed Speaker enclosures – another rabbit hole

PS95-8After months (and months) I’ve finally been able to pull my thumb out and start a long wanted upgrade of my somewhat old Home Theater system…….With a 3D printed ‘twist’

Continue reading “3D Printed Speaker enclosures – another rabbit hole”

Wanhao D9 – Bed leveling -do this to make it work!

Add M420 S1 after G28

 

Someone on facebook suggested that the stock wanhao Firmware doesn’t handle leveling propertly. They’re right

Check out……..

https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,789128

 

given the 1000’s of people having issues getting the D9 to print properly, there does seem to be something fundamentally wrong with the printer….

 

In your Cura / startup script, find G28

Continue reading “Wanhao D9 – Bed leveling -do this to make it work!”

3D Printing – Upgrades – Here we go again!

Haven’t even fully assembled the thing yet and I discover there are many upgrades

https://all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/

https://www.thingiverse.com/

many very cheap!, A few expensive, many quick, a few slower…..

I do however own a few Ikea Lack Tables

and being a little dissapointed that my D9 was just too big to fit inside, I’m probbaly going to knock up a small stacker with my 3020 and ender 3! ………..when i’ll actually use all this crap for making stuff for the kids to play with, who knows!, still, the ‘possibilities’ are keeping me sane right now!

 

Continue reading “3D Printing – Upgrades – Here we go again!”

More 3D printing…New toy – Creality Ender 3

Well, after endless weeks of frustration with the D9 and extrusion issues, I’ve gone and done a few things

img_7258

Purchased a silly amount of ‘spare parts’ at ridiculous prices from random chinese websites – it’s like Christmas! every day!, there’s steady stream of small boxes and packages arriving. I’ll have enough bits to build a couple of spare printers soon…….

img_7256

Continue reading “More 3D printing…New toy – Creality Ender 3”

Wanhao Duplicator 9 – New X Axis parts coming – Part 2

My printer / PC should be back up and running on the weekend, based on some feedback from a trial tester, I’ve modded the brackets a little – namely to improve the ease of removing of the supports in the stepper motor part , and increasing the height a little for the idler mount on the right…

Some more tweaks will happen before I get to properly print and test, then I’ll upload

 

left X V2

Above shows the lines inserted in the NEMA17 stepper motor mount. This should negate any need to use supports

 

Continue reading “Wanhao Duplicator 9 – New X Axis parts coming – Part 2”

Wanhao Duplicator 9 – New X Axis parts coming

It’s been a busy personal and work life for the past few weeks so it’s been difficult to ‘tinker’……….I have however made something new!………….. Continue reading “Wanhao Duplicator 9 – New X Axis parts coming”

D9 – Some more upgrades – Belt Tension

I’ve designed another thing that solves some more problems with the D9 – a Belt tensioner!

Jerome Waweru D9-300 Y Axis Tensioner 9mm 1
Thanks to Jerome on Facebook for posting a pic of his Tensioner

I’ve posted this up on Thingiverse……….

It’s been printed at least 10 times by guys on the facebook group and provides an immediate and cheap improvement over the stock……..

Continue reading “D9 – Some more upgrades – Belt Tension”

Wanhao D9 – Poor Y axis design and free printable fix

D9 Motor mount 3

During my tinkering time with the printer, trying to improve the print quality I noted that something seemed a little ‘off’ with the Y axis movements……

Continue reading “Wanhao D9 – Poor Y axis design and free printable fix”

Aluminium beds – some thoughts on levelling

The Wanhao printer bed is made of Aluminium, below this is a flexible heating element.

It’s been widely reported that the D9 doesn’t level very easilly, Here’s why people are having issues….

Aluminium expands when heated!

If you’re having ‘levelling issues’ ensure to do the electronic bed levelling whilst the bed is hot! – (pre-heat to typical printing temperature first)

 

Anyways, some math.

Here’s a datasheet for the Aluminium I purchased for my carriage upgrade

Two things I note here –

Physical Property Value
Density 2.71 g/cm³
Thermal Expansion 24 x10^-6 /K

Density – Steel (which the carriage is made of) is generally around the 7 – 8 g/cm³ – or Three times that of Aluminium! – win there, I can use a sheet of aluminium Three times thicker than the steel on the carriage and have the same weight (in theory)

Thermal Expansion – Translated this means that Aluminium expands by 24 micrometers per millikelvin. Also known as 0.000024 meters per degree

 

How does this affect the D9 Printbed?

When heated, the 325 x 325 x 2mm thick aluminium bed  becomes a bit larger

………How large?

 

Here follows some very rough calcuations……..

Continue reading “Aluminium beds – some thoughts on levelling”

More Upgrades – X axis Linear Rails

Finally got a few hours over Christmas to knock up the X axis linear rails upgrade for the printer.

Printer seems to run nicely and i’ve printed a few small things….I’ll work on quantifying any improvements next as, right now it only ‘seems’ better, and print quality improvements are really marginal. The biggest difference was on the Y axis bed, and I suspect there are now easy further improvements to be had………

Photos Below

img_1488
Side view showing the new Carriage (designed by someone else)

img_1486
The new idler mount – this was needed as existing thingverse ones don’t have space for the rail at the top

img_1489
Top down view of the new rail carriage

img_1485
side view of the new idler and it’s tension adjustment screws

Bed offset and a fix! – now prints 310mm circles

Recently I’ve been requested to make a ‘small’ thing for a friend ..I knocked up a very quick test thingy to see if I could

Link to Tinkercad file300mm

Turns out, I initially couldn’t!

Continue reading “Bed offset and a fix! – now prints 310mm circles”

First signs of life and possible ‘bugs’

Everything’s gone superbly up to now…The printer’s levelled all lovely like.

The bed moves back and forth as it should.

So, lets try a first brand new print , as I already have one printed months ago, which I broke due to not enough infill…It’ll be a good ‘benchmark’

Wanhao D9 Idler mount from Thingverse

img_1199

Err, doesn’t look great does it….The first layer went down lovely, then at some point during these first 6 or so layers, a shift happened, there’s some blobbing, and, well, it ain’t too pretty.

First thoughts are many expletives, followed by a ‘ah well, that was a fun experiment’ resignation.

The rails aren’t perfectly frictionless in their moving, but they aren’t bad either..I’ve seen worse on automated production lines….Could I be experiencing STICTION????

If so, that’s gonna be some mechanical engineering stuff i’m going to have to figure out…Whilst ‘fun’ trying to calculate stuff with excel, wikipedia and various internet forums (are the MGN12 ideal for this job? – who knows?)…..I don’t fancy being bored, typing crap out on a computer (yes, i’m blogging, typing stuff out on a computer, hopefully not crap), I want to get stuck into tinkering, printing…..

I try another print and just stand and watch……

I luckily and quickly notice an odd ‘cyclic’ type of motion happening with the pattern laying down, almost a tiny figure of 8 type of motion happening on the print head with respect to the bed…..

I have a look underneath to see what’s causing it, maybe the bearings are wobbling, or i’ve not tightend the rails properly?

In summary –

Tighten the belt holder holding nuts when you re-assemble the thing! these ones shown below…..

img_1209
Yes, tightening these two solved my odd pattern issues and layer shifting

MGN12H rails small tweaks to perfect…

Ok, the rails are on and working a treat, kind of…

The right angled fittings I purchased to secure the 20×20 extrusion to the 40×40 have some little tabs on them, I can’t find any readily available way of securely making this connection with off the shelf parts so i’ll have to grind down one side’s tabs…

The slight amount of pressure this tab is putting on the extruision is enough to twist it and stop the MGN rails from running smoothly!

img_1176
A secure 20×20 extrusion. But slightly twisted due to the small lump

img_1181

View from below…if I add a little drop down to the right hand carriage, it’ll be easy to re-use the existing limit switch by mounting it on the side of the 2020

img_1185img_1179

Close ups of the existing limit switch and the protrusions on the right angled mounting block.

Overall, minor things , but shows you should plan things a little in advance and test fit stuff before ‘going for it’

Fortunately this is nothing a quick angle grind and carriage print can’t fix….which means re-assembling the original printer to print a new bit, D’oh!

MGN12 rails update – Fitted and The printer moves!

Finally bit the bullet and stopped printing stuff long enough to shove the rails on the printer……..

And, the carriages fit perfectly!

The movement of the blocks is very nice and smooth  – though right now, no real notable difference from the V-wheels……

Continue reading “MGN12 rails update – Fitted and The printer moves!”

It’s alive! – kind of. MGN12 Rails update

Well, the MGN12H linear rail carriages fit into the new carriage adaptors I quickly knocked up in Tinkercad perfectly!

And, don’t they look lovely in Purple (great filament from 3D Filaprint)

Now, to dismantle the printer and see if the print bed tray fits…………

That’s the problem with printing stuff to upgrade a printer, iterating takes time and stuff gets dismantled waaay too much! I need a second printer :-p

MGN12H crappy linear rail bearing blocks

What’s more sensible than spending $9USD on a basic, possibly non working chinese no-name bearing block?

……..Spending hours and a few quid trying to do ’em up!

Parts I’ll need…

  • 3/32 Drill Bit (or possibly 2.4mm if it needs some play) …………..[edit, turns out a 2.4mm is too small! Looks like 2.5 is the go]
  • 3/32 Ball bearings (bound to loose a few)
  • Something to drill with
  • something to clamp down the carriage without damaging it

After a few minutes with the calipers and Tinkercad, I give you………. Continue reading “MGN12H crappy linear rail bearing blocks”

Chinese ‘cheap’ clone linear rails MGN12 Beware and a teardown

The Cheapy ‘Hiwin’ clone rails and blocks arrived a while back and they haven’t really dissapointed. By that, I mean, I kinda got what I was expecting. Still, only a small premium paid and 3 workable carriages / rails……

Continue reading “Chinese ‘cheap’ clone linear rails MGN12 Beware and a teardown”

D9 Linear rails upgrade – Bed

d9 202 wide base by 120 deep

I’ve found a solution to having a fairly stable base that’s wider than the 60mm square wheel carriages Wanhao uses…

It’s possible to create a 120mm wide base, IF you offset the mounting of the bearing blocks from the centre as can be seen above and below…

Continue reading “D9 Linear rails upgrade – Bed”

Wanhao D9-300 Linear rails upgrades…

220mm base too wide 3Just running through a few ideas in Tinkercad whilst I await some parts to arrive….it pays to mockup things before committing to a design, I’m liking how easy Tinkercad is to do something that, on the surface looks quite complex………

on My D9, looking from the front, the Y axis rails are spaced at 202mm edge to edge….so it makes sense that an approximatley 202mm deep by 202mm wide square would form the most stable base available, whilst still using the original dimensions of the frame………..

….Nope…..

 

 

The mockup above  shows a base plate of 202mm square bolted straight to the Hiwin clone rails……also shows the 325mm outline of the heated bed – it’s transparent to help visualise

Unfortunatley, having a 202mm square base for the linear rails bearing blocks has prevented the 325mm moving bed from obtaining its full travel – you can see below the the vertical line of the extruder output is not too far from the centre of the bed, even though if the bed moves forward, the bearing blocks will run off the end of the rails

220mm base too wide 3

This image below shows how far the blocks need to move off the end of the rails to allow the extruder to almost reach the edge of the heated bed

220mm base too wide 2

 

The extruder can easily reach the end of  the heated bed when the bed travels backwards – with the additional slight overhang provided by the 500mm long rails being used

220mm base too wide 1

 

so, summary

I’m not going to be using a 200ish mm square base plate with my 4 linear rail blocks on!…

it’s looking like it’ll need to be a 200ish wide rectangle that’s hopefully not less than 100mm deep – as the linear rail blocks are 45mm!

Still here! – Forthcoming upgrades

 

In my never ending quest to do everything to this printer, other than to print stuff, I’ve decided to perform a series of upgrades. It’s been a few months of indecision and procrastination, but…

 

Upgrade 1 – Linear Rails

Found these from a few forum posts recommending the manufacturer in CNC forums…

It’s a Hiwin copy , I’ve purchased the MGN12 – 500mm rails and the MGN12H bearing blocks…

I’ve received the rails and very impressed. Currently waiting another 3 x MGN12H in the post to make 6 total…and then I can get started

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AliExpress Hong Yi Automation Store

Continue reading “Still here! – Forthcoming upgrades”

Z Offset problems

After the new 1.64B firmware, I’m having some issues with the printer….it starts printing about 1mm in the air……lets investigate

 

I’ve levelled the printer bed, manually, then autolevel

I’ve set the Z offset during the levelling process

I try printing, it’s 1mm high in the air and refusing to stick

 

Home the Z axis on the Printer, send this command with Pronterface

G0 Z0

find out what the Z reading is and check what the offset is

SENDING:M114
X:10.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:797 Y:0 Z:17
SENDING:M851
echo:Z Offset : -0.20abl_enabled

that’s telling me that at Z home, i’ve got Z = 17 with -0.2 offset, so, Z should read 16.8   Lets try resetting back to defaults

SENDING:M502
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
>>> m501
SENDING:M501
echo:V07 stored settings retrieved (590 bytes; crc 9778)
echo:  G21    ; Units in mm
echo:  M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo:  M200 D3.00
echo:  M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo:  M92 X79.80 Y79.60 Z400.50 E94.20
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo:  M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo:  M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E500
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
echo:  M204 P500.00 R800.00 T500.00
echo:Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_ms> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>
echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E1.00
echo:Home offset:
echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Auto Bed Leveling:
echo:  M420 S1
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo:  M145 S0 H200 B60 F0
  M145 S1 H240 B80 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo:  M301 P33.41 I1.47 D189.27
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo:  M851 Z-0.20

 

Hmm

I have no idea what’s going on! looks like the Z offset isn’t ‘sticking’ (Much like some of my prints!!)

 

Either way, something’s a little inconsistent 😦