JLCPCB have a fairly nice facebook group , and along with their EASYEDA group have done quite a bit to really get hobbyists producing PCB’s
Recently they reached out to me, having read through a lot of the waffle on these here pages and offered a small gesture of thanks for giving them a mention in the past, and, right now also.
so, in return, i’ll write even more about them 🙂 and, how I discovered them!
Back a couple of years ago, when wanting to make my first PCB for couple of decades, I tried KICAD, EAGLE, and a few other ‘free’ software packages. nothing was quite as easy as PROTEUS and , back then , LISA that I used in the mid 90’s in University. I’d resigned myself to a fairly intimidating hill to climb to get back into things…..
Then I found EASYEDA !. I knocked out my first ever PCB – the SpeccyPi, i’ll find it and post about it at some point.
EASYEDA seems to be a tool developed by both JLCPCB and LCSC to help people to purchase their products. i.e. both websites are quite well tied in for a simple ‘design, click, order’ solution. For us hobbyists, it really is a combination of ‘dream come true’ enablers.
Haven’t looked back since. I’m still using EASYEDA, because, like me, it’s quite simple and really works well.
JLCPCB have made almost all of my hobby PCB’s, have done a fantastic job with SMT assembly on my later PCB’s – with their partner site – LCSC , they offer an unmatched value for someone who’s a bit lazy and just wants a ‘1 click’ solution to ordering SMT populated PCB’s.
Really, if you are still using breadboard for your ‘production’ hackery, fire up EASYEDA quickly, bung a few components in, wait a week or two and marvel at your professionally looking PCB inside your widget. it’s shockingly addictive.
if you’re even slightly intimidated by SMT stuff – Fire up the JLCPCB website
Back a couple of years ago, I lucked out on a facebook marketplace post. Someone was selling an unassembled 3D printer kit, that was tatty and had missing parts………Woo!
I did a 30 mile detour on my voyage home from Wales and grabbed it. excitedly pulling all the bits out of the oversized, filthy box and….Putting them into a rather smaller, cleaner box for a couple of years whilst not doing much with it.
Well, today, that £40 investment paid off.
by hacking a chunk off the 8mm threaded rod, using a few bolts and washers, and a quick mod using a spare Hama-beads square that we had lying around, I was able to fix the broken hamster wheel!
or, in other words, I’ve massively over-engineered a fix by butchering a 3D printer (kit).
On the plus side, I’ve a happy hamster AND saved £2.87 by not needing to buy a new one!
Also, It’s gotten me thinking….HAMSTER STATISTICS.
Scroll down to 19884 – See just what processors are sitting in the same area – what their retail price was! – this processor sits at exactly the same position as the intel i7-10700KF
A 125W DESKTOP processor that costs £400 on its own on ebay right now. Add all the other stuff needed to make a fully functional PC and you’re getting close to a GRAND on a DESKTOP!
In summary – I’m besotted….This laptop’s happily rendering in REAL TIME what my old laptop took tens of minutes in Fusion360
if you’ve been holding off buying a laptop, you really can’t go wrong with the Renoir series of processors.
and, for games – seems to run Fortnight,Starcraft 2, and a few others just fine at maximum settings! performance apparently is about the same as the Geforce MX250 which isn’t sloppy considering this is integrated graphics and has just a 25W TDP when under extreme performance. The MX250 graphics card has a 25W TDP on its own for this benchmark!
Fawning over, normal service will resume shortly 🙂 – in the meanwhile, ask away any questions, happy to answer them
The pipe with the new 53mm straight lengths comes a little short of the planned box enclosure end……
I’d calculated the ‘missing’ 57.5mm length based upon the centre path of the diameter having a diameter of 95mm……
The pipe itself has a diameter of 85mm
So, the actual pipe itself will need an additional 42.5mm either side of the path it follows………..
Which means, a new sketch………Something like this.
R47.5 is the 95mm diameter of the centre of the pipe
R90 is the outer diameter of the 85mm diameter pipe
10 is the thickness of the speaker enclosure
Finally, we have at least one outer enclosure dimension sorted! – 200mm – Err, that’s a bit bigger than planned! – The speaker itself is only 98.2mm diameter……Looks like some more iterating needed, BUT, now I understand the dimensions, I can experiment a little with the Tube’s cross sectional area and therfore diameter…….
In hindsight, the speaker enclosure dimension was fairly obvious…….
enclosure thickness ( 10mm ) +
Transmission Line Diameter ( 85mm ) +
enclosure thickness ( 10mm ) +
Transmission Line Diameter ( 85mm ) +
enclosure thickness ( 10mm ) +
The smallest enclosure possible has a Transmission Line area the same as the speaker – i.e.
Well, after endless weeks of frustration with the D9 and extrusion issues, I’ve gone and done a few things
Purchased a silly amount of ‘spare parts’ at ridiculous prices from random chinese websites – it’s like Christmas! every day!, there’s steady stream of small boxes and packages arriving. I’ll have enough bits to build a couple of spare printers soon…….
My printer / PC should be back up and running on the weekend, based on some feedback from a trial tester, I’ve modded the brackets a little – namely to improve the ease of removing of the supports in the stepper motor part , and increasing the height a little for the idler mount on the right…
Some more tweaks will happen before I get to properly print and test, then I’ll upload
Above shows the lines inserted in the NEMA17 stepper motor mount. This should negate any need to use supports
Density – Steel (which the carriage is made of) is generally around the 7 – 8 g/cm³ – or Three times that of Aluminium! – win there, I can use a sheet of aluminium Three times thicker than the steel on the carriage and have the same weight (in theory)
Thermal Expansion – Translated this means that Aluminium expands by 24 micrometers per millikelvin. Also known as 0.000024 meters per degree
How does this affect the D9 Printbed?
When heated, the 325 x 325 x 2mm thick aluminium bed becomes a bit larger
The Cheapy ‘Hiwin’ clone rails and blocks arrived a while back and they haven’t really dissapointed. By that, I mean, I kinda got what I was expecting. Still, only a small premium paid and 3 workable carriages / rails……
In my research of 3D printers, it seems that just one bloke is responsible for the massive explosion in popularity in recent years……
This bloke develops and releases for FREE the firmware / software that drives YOUR printer
Sign up for Patreon and donate just once, or just a dollar or two a month….I’ve just signed up for $2 a month….Not much, just imagine how much he’d get if he had just $1 a month off everyone who had a cheap 3D printer
Marlin is used on over 90% of printers worldwide. The lead developer Scott sometimes has trouble making ends meet. This should NOT be happening. Please consider becoming a Patreon at his Patreon page below even if you can only commit for a month it is better than nothing.
Now that my open-box Monoprice Maker Select (Wanhao Duplicator i3) is up and running, it’s time to take a closer look at the less than perfect print output. This was totally expected at this terrifically low price point, and part of the point of this exercise was to learn how to analyze 3D printer problems and how to address them. This printer is not just a tool – it is a project in and of itself!
The first (and as it turns out, a recurring) issue is a vibration artifact in the print after a sharp movement. After some web searches, I’ve learned this was called “ringing” because it’s the after effect of a sharp impulse, like ringing a bell. Looking at the printer, I thought the obvious culprit would be the Y-axis movement. It has to move the build platform so it would have more inertia to overcome and…
It’s been a few weeks now, still haven’t actually cut anything proper like,
however, a BIG occasion, I can now JOG all 4 axis quite happily in Mach3!
for those looking everywhere (and I did), no-where really quite states obviously or easily the pins on the connector needed to control the 4th Axis, it’s pins 8 & 9
And Also – another setting needed,
Under CONFIG – Homing / Limits.
Set Soft MAX and Soft MIN on A axis to ZERO, that’ll allow it to rotate forever.
Now, one plus side of getting the A axis to work, it uses the same stepper motors as the X,Y,Z. it should help me to be able to accuratley calibrate the system now as many websites suggest that the 400 steps per rotation is ‘off a bit’….
Here goes. Need to figure out ‘homing’ and how exactly the G-Code relates to the position on the table. most ‘dry runs’ so far have pushed the CNC past its limits…..which is annoying as i don’t have limit switches yet!
Noting some of the ‘stuff’ on the board, we can see that it’s quite simple really, it’s a small microprocessor controlled, dual sided PCB Two voltages – 18V AC and 36V AC from the secondaries of the transformers, 18V dropped down to 5V to feed the processor electrics….. 36V rectified to DC, then passed to the spindle somehow the micro takes in the variable resistance from the POT at the front of the box and converts it to DC, PWM at whatever voltage the 36V AC is converted down to. Not sure what the extra plugs do yet though, i’ll keep adding to this board STC 15W408AS –
SOP16 – Single Chip Micro – 8051 based – 8-12 times faster than standard 8051
There is a few versions of this board around, one older one seems similarly laid out but based upon a 555 timer! Theres a fellow Aussie doing much more digging than I at this time, ill pinch some wording from his page on how my board works. The spindle speed control works by passing the PWM through a low pass filter, then reading the DC voltage produced on an analog pin of a PIC micro. The micro then reads the value (most significant 7-bit’s of 10 bits), and sends it to a digital pot. The digital pot contains an 8-bit data register (16-bit really with command byte) and is 10K and we need 5K, so that’s why we are grabbing 7 bits (need 8 bits and grabbing 7-bits divides the value in half). The last log explains why I need to convert PWM to a resistive value (voltage divider). I’ve also added a feature for the Z auto level probe on the board. The issue there is, my system has been configured to work with Normally Closed limit switches and the act of probing, is a Normally Open operation. Have look at his projects on Hackaday.io Here