I’m going to be reserved till it actually works…….But, I really think this could actually workContinue reading “Super LED Blinkenator 2000 and that J15…An epiphany?”
This is the inserts being ‘mass produced’ at a PCBA manufacturer:-)
I’ve purchased a reel of 5000 LED’s and paid for them to make and solder them to as many boards as they can…which should be about 620 oddContinue reading “The Super LED Blinkenator 2000 progress…”
Not a huge post this one, just a quick couple of photos
The inserts fit perfectly into the case also. I’m going to experiment a bit with diffusion methods, surface finishes and colours.
I picked up about 80 of the inserts so plenty to experiment with and get the dev boards done
I Purchased 10 controller boards with the SMT components ready assembled There’s a few small bugs……But, that’s what prototyping is for.
First major annoyance – I’d goofed and left VCC on the arduino as 3.3v in the schematic. so, the board wouldn’t power up inside a next. Quick fix is to short RAW – to the VCC pin on the Arduino
(RAW is a 5V OUTPUT when plugged into USB, or 5 and a bit Volts INPUT to power the Arduino)
This has the potential downside of back-powering the Next via USB via the 5V Line when it’s sitting inside a Next and someone uploads a sketch
Another change needed – The Arduino’s USB port fouls the case when fitted inside. With a USB cable in, the lower part of the keyboard inlay blocks the port. – it’s ‘just’ about bodgeable however if you really wedge it in there. But, not ideal So, i’ve tried with soldering the arduino ‘upside down’ on the wrong side of the board – that seems to work. The board’s mounted just far enough ‘up’ into the case that a USB cable can sit under it.
For the production version i’ll re-arrange the board completely
Another further change –
Removing the RAW pin entirely from the Arduino and shorting the Next 5V directly to the VCC pin on the Arduino
That’s about it for these pictures,
From top to bottom –
Original board – has a resistor bodged in and the RED led installed on the wrong side. Also has my ‘impossible to solder straight’ PCB fingers.
Third board – upside down mounted arduino with missing RAW pin
Second board – my ‘go to’ working one right now – also has the first run of my ‘quick fit’ connectors……i’ve done about 20 cycles of inserting now and they’re still working!
Due to my previous goof-up of having made the old LED insterts ‘backwards’, I designed new ones!
They’ve arrived and are all round much better
- Slimmer – just 2.2mm wide
- 8 LED’s!
Here’s what they look like – the features are a bit too small for JLCPCB to handle on their mass production – their mill uses a 1mm bit – guidelines are minimum of 3mm between milled out slots
I’ve ordered 50 of these – should be plenty to fill up the 10 prototype control boards i’ve gotten made and leave a few over for experimentation / errors
There’s a small problem however with mousebites this small – each board takes a good five minutes or so of dremmeling to get ready!. I can do about 7 boards to a charge of my battery powered cutting tool….I’ve ordered 50 prototype PCB’s so that’s lots of minutes of work ahead! good thing we’ve a handful of N95 facemasks picked up from back in March just as the world went loopy!
Here they are in all their glory, powered up the RIGHT way round on a controller PCB.
I hand soldered all 4 of them using some new (expensive) solder paste,d 3 worked first time! the last one had two LED’s mis-aligned…Quite a good improvement!
Each insert so far on the prototype is taking easily 20 minutes from receipt of parts to working device. Each new controller PCB is taking over an hour of soldering and wire cutting for the quick contacts. That should come down quite a bit once i’ve figured out a process.
Yeah, spot the mistake 😛 Still, quite chuffed – these are powered up and working INSIDE the next! –
There’s no control YET – this is just a single routine that runs upon powerup in the Arduino….
And, just as a final superb moment – look at these results of a quick i2c Scan (there’s a lot of numbers due to using an HDMI monitor)….That 3rd Device at address 0x45 – That’s the Spectrum Next Super LED Blinkenator 2000 just waiting for a .DOT command to control it 🙂
The CAD for the clear plastic parts of the inserts is coming on well. I’ve just ordered a handfull of these to be Resin printed…..
Some extra features –
- 339 small 0.25mm dimples to help diffuse the light!
- Strain relief for the PCB – the two slots on either end will help slightly mis aligned PCB’s to sit in the cutouts
- Much thicker top layer to help with light diffusing
and i’m well chuffed to say – they’re almost alive!
There’s a few teething problems however,
My ‘excellent’ idea as can be seen on my last post – https://bleughbleugh.wordpress.com/2020/05/19/spectrum-next-light-strips-more-first-light/
to use some PCB grounding spring contacts to provide a quick fit connection didn’t really pan out – the contacts simply didn’t solder on easily, too difficult to align correctly and quite weak – I tore a few pads off trying to get them aligned and correctly ‘grippy’ on the insert.
multiply that by 16 each board – the first one took me about 2 hours to get to be in an ‘ok’ state – Not really acceptable for a mass production product – not that this’ll be mass production but I’d rather not spend half a day on each of these getting them ready for sale……..
The second slight issue – See the photo below
The PCB is laid out on top the next board in the position it’ll be installed in.
There’s a prize for someone that spots the goof-up
Have a further look at the PCB powered up………..
Yeah, I got the inserts ‘back to front’ – That’s the result of working on a bottom mount PCB from the bottom…….
There’s two ways I can fix this
Simply rotate each LED by 180 degrees on the PCB and install a bodge wire to swap the input and outputs around………
I can simply re-design the LED insert and improve upon it!
a few reasons to re-design,
The first 6 LED version still has a bit of point brightness – I fear that even with the SLA printed inserts it won’t be diffuse enough..
8 LED’s – This should spread out the light more, reducing the hotspots a bit
0.4mm Slimmer – this lowers the LED’s further into the case, allowing much more plastic to sit above. I’m hoping this will de-focus the light more
Reversed connections to match the reversed controller board!. reversed is the new non-reversed now 🙂
New insert PCB’s are on order and should be here in a couple of weeks, I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered FIFTY….Also a few hundred more LED’s and a large tube of solderpaste.
Doing these first 10 dev boards is going to be fun – 320 1.5mm LED’s to be hand soldered!
The Controller board fits inside the case almost perfectly
I’ve slightly offset the J15 connector on my PCB to the one on the next. This offset gives a lot of friction, but needs some long term testing – the standard header I installed on one of my boards seems to work well as a friction fit. BUT, i’m not convinced that 32 LED’s, each pulling 5-20mA, (depending on which datasheet I refer to) – or between 160-800mA total depending on how I end up setting the brightness…..800mA is a LOT to pull
I’ve purchased a new gadget – A Riden RD6006 Benchtop ‘power supply’ so once i’m set up, i’ll charaterise the LED’s and current draw to set the software limits appropriatley
I doubt i’ll take nearly an amp on this board 😛
One further small mistake on the dev board –
When originally designing this controller board, I was to use a 3.3v Arduino to make it compatible with the Next’s 3v3 i2c.
For a few reasons, I’ve changed to using a 5V arduino and putting on-board a level translator device – this gives a 5V buffered i2c output that anyone can easily plug into
I forgot to change the net names….The board still ‘thinks’ the Arduino is either powered from RAW (it’s ‘unregulated input’) or 3V3 VCC…
The RAW input drops a few volts through a voltage regulator on the arduino to give the arduino a nice regulated 5V.
The next output is 5V….it’s not enough to power the Arduino through the RAW pin…
Took me quite a while – and a bit of soldering hackery to figure that one out as the speccy picked the board up perfectly when patch wired in place..
USB powered, it works perfectly
in the Next it doesnt….
The fix – I think I can just short the RAW pin to the unconnected VCC pin on this first batch –
See that i2c device, found at address 0x45………..That’s the Blinkenlight 2000 PCB :-), alive and inside the Next!!!
There’s quite a bit I could ramble on about for this one – but i’ll just post a load of photos instead.
Research – Too many rabbit holes and a surprisingly large number of ways this can be implemented….
The First Prototype
Back a few years ago (wow, it was that long!) I backed the Spectrum Next
Problem is, those lovely coloured bars over on the right
They’re not LED’s………….
Well, I’m gonna try to fix it……