It’s alive! – kind of. MGN12 Rails update

Well, the MGN12H linear rail carriages fit into the new carriage adaptors I quickly knocked up in Tinkercad perfectly!

And, don’t they look lovely in Purple (great filament from 3D Filaprint)

Now, to dismantle the printer and see if the print bed tray fits…………

That’s the problem with printing stuff to upgrade a printer, iterating takes time and stuff gets dismantled waaay too much! I need a second printer :-p

MGN12H crappy linear rail bearing blocks

What’s more sensible than spending $9USD on a basic, possibly non working chinese no-name bearing block?

……..Spending hours and a few quid trying to do ’em up!

Parts I’ll need…

  • 3/32 Drill Bit (or possibly 2.4mm if it needs some play) …………..[edit, turns out a 2.4mm is too small! Looks like 2.5 is the go]
  • 3/32 Ball bearings (bound to loose a few)
  • Something to drill with
  • something to clamp down the carriage without damaging it

After a few minutes with the calipers and Tinkercad, I give you………. Continue reading “MGN12H crappy linear rail bearing blocks”

Chinese ‘cheap’ clone linear rails MGN12 Beware and a teardown

The Cheapy ‘Hiwin’ clone rails and blocks arrived a while back and they haven’t really dissapointed. By that, I mean, I kinda got what I was expecting. Still, only a small premium paid and 3 workable carriages / rails……

Continue reading “Chinese ‘cheap’ clone linear rails MGN12 Beware and a teardown”

D9 Linear rails upgrade – Bed

d9 202 wide base by 120 deep

I’ve found a solution to having a fairly stable base that’s wider than the 60mm square wheel carriages Wanhao uses…

It’s possible to create a 120mm wide base, IF you offset the mounting of the bearing blocks from the centre as can be seen above and below…

Continue reading “D9 Linear rails upgrade – Bed”

Wanhao D9-300 Linear rails upgrades…

220mm base too wide 3Just running through a few ideas in Tinkercad whilst I await some parts to arrive….it pays to mockup things before committing to a design, I’m liking how easy Tinkercad is to do something that, on the surface looks quite complex………

on My D9, looking from the front, the Y axis rails are spaced at 202mm edge to edge….so it makes sense that an approximatley 202mm deep by 202mm wide square would form the most stable base available, whilst still using the original dimensions of the frame………..

….Nope…..

 

 

The mockup above  shows a base plate of 202mm square bolted straight to the Hiwin clone rails……also shows the 325mm outline of the heated bed – it’s transparent to help visualise

Unfortunatley, having a 202mm square base for the linear rails bearing blocks has prevented the 325mm moving bed from obtaining its full travel – you can see below the the vertical line of the extruder output is not too far from the centre of the bed, even though if the bed moves forward, the bearing blocks will run off the end of the rails

220mm base too wide 3

This image below shows how far the blocks need to move off the end of the rails to allow the extruder to almost reach the edge of the heated bed

220mm base too wide 2

 

The extruder can easily reach the end of  the heated bed when the bed travels backwards – with the additional slight overhang provided by the 500mm long rails being used

220mm base too wide 1

 

so, summary

I’m not going to be using a 200ish mm square base plate with my 4 linear rail blocks on!…

it’s looking like it’ll need to be a 200ish wide rectangle that’s hopefully not less than 100mm deep – as the linear rail blocks are 45mm!

Still here! – Forthcoming upgrades

 

In my never ending quest to do everything to this printer, other than to print stuff, I’ve decided to perform a series of upgrades. It’s been a few months of indecision and procrastination, but…

 

Upgrade 1 – Linear Rails

Found these from a few forum posts recommending the manufacturer in CNC forums…

It’s a Hiwin copy , I’ve purchased the MGN12 – 500mm rails and the MGN12H bearing blocks…

I’ve received the rails and very impressed. Currently waiting another 3 x MGN12H in the post to make 6 total…and then I can get started

6_UT8YI5HXbtbXXagOFbX4

AliExpress Hong Yi Automation Store

Continue reading “Still here! – Forthcoming upgrades”

8 Bit computers and a new 2018 Crash Annual!

 

A little something different as I work up to posting some new content after the summer hols….

If you’ve ever owned one of the 8 bit computers of the 80’s and early 90’s, this is a MUST purchase magazine…

I’ts focus is the ZX Sinclair Spectrum (AKA the speccy / rubber beermat) and last years 2017 annual was fantastic

For an absolute steal of just 15 quid, hardback!

If your significant other (or yourself) has reminisced about days gone by…or wants to see what’s happening in the scene today, get this!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/47744432/crash-annual-2019-issue-100/widget/card.html?v=2“>https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/47744432/crash-annual-2019-issue-100/widget/card.html?v=2

http://kck.st/2NRZ1zB

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/47744432/crash-annual-2019-issue-100/

 

Z Offset problems

After the new 1.64B firmware, I’m having some issues with the printer….it starts printing about 1mm in the air……lets investigate

 

I’ve levelled the printer bed, manually, then autolevel

I’ve set the Z offset during the levelling process

I try printing, it’s 1mm high in the air and refusing to stick

 

Home the Z axis on the Printer, send this command with Pronterface

G0 Z0

find out what the Z reading is and check what the offset is

SENDING:M114
X:10.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:797 Y:0 Z:17
SENDING:M851
echo:Z Offset : -0.20abl_enabled

that’s telling me that at Z home, i’ve got Z = 17 with -0.2 offset, so, Z should read 16.8   Lets try resetting back to defaults

SENDING:M502
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
>>> m501
SENDING:M501
echo:V07 stored settings retrieved (590 bytes; crc 9778)
echo:  G21    ; Units in mm
echo:  M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo:  M200 D3.00
echo:  M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo:  M92 X79.80 Y79.60 Z400.50 E94.20
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo:  M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo:  M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E500
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
echo:  M204 P500.00 R800.00 T500.00
echo:Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_ms> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>
echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E1.00
echo:Home offset:
echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Auto Bed Leveling:
echo:  M420 S1
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo:  M145 S0 H200 B60 F0
  M145 S1 H240 B80 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo:  M301 P33.41 I1.47 D189.27
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo:  M851 Z-0.20

 

Hmm

I have no idea what’s going on! looks like the Z offset isn’t ‘sticking’ (Much like some of my prints!!)

 

Either way, something’s a little inconsistent 😦

 

Bad prints – Grr, the importance of cooling

img_7376

After the old soap and water life’s lesson and getting some fantastic print bed adhesion, the printer ‘developed’ * another problem……………

 

*by developed, I mean, ‘I’m an idiot’…..Probably…………..[just scroll to that bit below to avoid a few paragraphs of waffle

Continue reading “Bad prints – Grr, the importance of cooling”

Power Consumption and Smart Plugs

6102fVuF0NL._SL1000_

Picked myself up a cheap Wifi Smart Plug

I figured that if Octoprint can monitor the printer remotely…..if I see on video anything spontaneously combusting, I can remotely cut the power too!

I’ll figure out some scripting at some point to allow temperature sensors / smoke sensors to trigger the plug, but for now, it’s just a bit of fun…

For those wanting to know more about these types of plugs, this one on Amazon just happens to be an ESP8266EX with a relay………just like those cheapy sonoff thingies (of which I have two!)

And someone’s already torn one down and documented it – for which I’m grateful as there’s another rabbit hole I don’t have to follow (for now)

Some useless information about power consumption measured with this plug

 

  • 9.5 to 16.6 Watts when Idle – probably a bit more / less when fans kick in?, lets call it 10 Watts
  • 58 Watts when heating the Extruder
  • 247 Watts when heating the Bed(Blimey!)
  • 291 Watts PEAK and settles at 281 whilst pre heating for PLA
  • 13.9 watts when driving X left and right
  • 17.8  Watts when driving just Y / Bed
  • 13.4 Watts when driving Z up and down – which is a suprise really as I’d have thought it would be double X due to two motors
  • 261.4 Watts when Printing – (205 degrees PLA and 60 Bed)
  • alternates from 261.4 to 43 watts whilst printing

So, Overall, it’s not too power hungry…Lets call it 300 watts peak.

Electricity is about 35p per KWh here…..

if you have a 10 hour print, using 300 watts (peak), that’ll cost you about 33p in electricity! in practice, it’ll actually be a bit less as the heating elements aren’t on all the time, they cycle on/off to maintain the temperature!

Summary, run the printer as much as you want!, it’s less than 4P an hour here in the UK!

 

The importance of a Clean bed

 

Bad Bed Bad PLA

Use SOAP AND WATER………

 

 

I’ve a few successful prints under my belt now…..Pics another time……..

For the past few days though, this has been happening………Zero adhesion 😦

Continue reading “The importance of a Clean bed”

Wanhao Duplicator D9 – MK10 Extruder issues – Teardown and….a 3D model

After having a few minor issues with filament slipping and prints generally being a bit crappy, I figured I’d take stuff apart, always helps me relax…

On the interwebs I was really unable to find any specific detail about the MK10 / MK11 type head that the Wanhao Duplicator 9 uses…

Continue reading “Wanhao Duplicator D9 – MK10 Extruder issues – Teardown and….a 3D model”

3D Printing – Practical stuff…a useful item made!

img_7366-1

Iteration……it’s all about trying, adjusting, trying again. from the first basic drawing on the left and the first print….right through to the Rev6 print (that’s now REV 7)

The tall bit pushes against the conservatory roof…the little ‘hook’ holds it in place on a small ledge, the long dangly bit presses against the wall and holds the LED strip….REV 7 increases the length of the sticky uppy bit on the right!

Back a few weeks ago, I purchased some LED strings to light up the conservatory during the winter months

LED STRING

Also purchased a few types of incredibly sticky double sided stuff….they just would not stick……The sticky pads stuck to the PVC windows just fine, but whatever teflon type material the clear IP tubes are made of, well, it’s better than teflon, nowt’ll hold that up….

Enter my shiny new 3D printer….A few brackets will hold them up nicely!

I used some Playdoh to get an idea of the outline of the PVC Ledge that I could clip some holders to…Made some drawings and knocked up something in Tinkercad

LED BRACKET

On the left is my first foray into 3D cad in nearly two decades….I’ve merged them to show the Rev7 bracket that i’m now to print….

I’m amazed really, in modern times, a 3D printer enables you to take some measurements….Create an item, try for fit….re-design the item, try again…..rinse, repeat….in just a few hours!. 7 iterations of trying, wiggling about an ‘guessing’ what needed changing and it’s done (till I improve and get to rev 10 :-P)

I’ve a long print running, but when it finishes, i’ll print up about 20 of these in clear filament and show the final product installed….can’t wait!

 

D9 Printer Bed Levelling – Done Right

 

bed-leveling-on-Ultimaker2-1.jpgFinally – Wanhao have released a decent firmware – V0.164(B)

Now, Levelling the bed…..

 

There’s LOADS of videos, methods ,etc out there….this way is SIMPLE, CONSISTENT and reliable

Make sure your printer head is clean and free from cooled plastic

MAKE SURE THE BED IS CLEAN...(I’m using baby wet wipes, but they dont’ seem to be the best, i’ll need to try isopropyl alcohol like the old timers are)

How to clean….Use a sponge, soap and water………that’s it!

1 – LEVEL the Z axis – use a ruler / visual marks on the back, whatever, make sure the bar is level

2 – Use the menu to go into  the LEVEL selection

3 – Get the Z axis offset correct by using a piece of paper so it’s just gripped by the head

4 – TURN OFF THE PRINTER (yes, TURN IT OFF, DO NOT CLICK NEXT)

5 – MANUALLY move the print head to CLOSE (maybe 10mm away from) to the corners…

  • Start on one corner – use the paper between the head and the bed…adjust the screw in that corner till it just grips.
  • Move to the next corner, repeat
  • repeat again
  • repeat again

6 – Go back and check each corner and tweak slightly if necessary

7 – Turn printer on and LEVEL THE BED IN SOFTWARE AS NORMAL……

 

Now, if you really want to be pedantic, you should do this whilst everything’s warmed up to your normal working temperatures!

That’s it, the end

 

 

 

 

D9 Firmware, Marlin

text-25

Whilst waiting for my quieter fans to arrive, A little more digging into the inner workings of the printer is called for – mainly to ensure that Estimated slicing times in Cura get a little closer to the real world slicing times that I’m seeing…

Overall, if Cura suggests it’ll be 6 hours, it’ll actually be a 9 hour print!

Continue reading “D9 Firmware, Marlin”

Calibration – Part 2……Again!

280 x 280mm

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479352/

After figuring out that 20mm, just ain’t good enough to calibrate, I had a nose around on thingverse….

The largest ‘calibration’ thing I found was the above 280 x 280mm square……..Awesome, that’s good enough, close to 300mm too for maximum calibratory goodness…

Continue reading “Calibration – Part 2……Again!”

Calibration – WYISYG, Don’t use a 20mm Cube for accuracy!

img_7315https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865

 

Lots of basic printing suggested that the front to back measurement was slightly off…so, finally I’ve decided to calibrate the printer….

By, printing a calibration cube! I’ll do it a little differently and record just a bit more information…I’ll measure 3 points for each axis, giving 9 points for the cube….

Continue reading “Calibration – WYISYG, Don’t use a 20mm Cube for accuracy!”

Levelling – Enter the VL53L0X -World’s smallest Time of Flight sensor ?

I need some way to quickly, ‘cheaply’, reliably and repeatedly to measure distance……

There’s quite a few ways of measuring distance, including the following, often used with arduinos / by hobbyists

  • Sound!
  • Ultrasound
  • IR bounceback
  • Visual / camera analytics
  • Laser

There’s some newish widgets out there nowadays called ‘time of flight’ sensors….similar to part of how Lidar works

Googling these, seems there’s a fairly cheap one called a VL53L0X…..

Continue reading “Levelling – Enter the VL53L0X -World’s smallest Time of Flight sensor ?”

Nozzles!….what a minefield

51NqYBk5p0L

Well, as i’m thinking ahead for a change and have purchased some glow in the dark filament

I’ve now discovered that the stuff is quite abrasive and I really should be thinking about getting some spare nozzles

A quick search for ‘replacement nozzles’ and….err

Continue reading “Nozzles!….what a minefield”

Amazing Price for the Duplicator 9 in the UK – £349 at Box – FREE DELIVERY

I picked mine up for £399 just over 3 weeks ago!.

already it’s dropped by £50………wow!!

https://www.box.co.uk/Wanhao-Duplicator-9_2327623.html

 

boxprice

I get no benefits at all by linking to these guys, just highlighting a superb printer (so far!) for a superb price here in the UK

 

Immediate upgrades – Better wheels x 6 for the Y axis Bed (open builds type, see my other posts) and a better blower fan – <£40 extra and it’s a superb, 24V printer

Thoughts on technical things

STM

Levelling 3D printers almost seems like some form of witchcraft..….Doubly so when you have a small amount of mechanical knowledge and have some electrical PCB tinkering ability

The Wanhao D9 is a Prusa style printer – it has a moving bed and a fixed gantry

A slight difference is that the D9 has Dual Z axis stepper motors – BOTH sides of  the Z axis are driven, which adds another dimension to the levelling whajmacallits.

Continue reading “Thoughts on technical things”

Technical Stuff – Noise

 

Well, having left the printer on overnight to knock out an urgent print for a friend, I’ve discovered that, it’s a little on the noisy side!

Some googling…….

The Wanhao D9 has FOUR fans!  (yep, FOUR)

One 60x60x15mm fan in the power supply and Three 40x40x10

 

Two of these…AAA HZHZ 4010 MS 24V DC 0.10Amp fans

40mmFAN

One on the extruder, right by the number 7, top yellow arrow

This one is the fan that cools the extruder block

Continue reading “Technical Stuff – Noise”

Wanhao Duplicator 9 – D9 – Technical ‘stuff’ – Part Deux, the LCD Part number!

LCD

As you can gather, I get a little sidetracked, this thing’s a 3D printer and, well, I’ve not done a huge amount of 3D printering yet……….Ah well

Lets go back to DWIN.com.cn  

The T5 Processor on the back of the LCD

T5

Continue reading “Wanhao Duplicator 9 – D9 – Technical ‘stuff’ – Part Deux, the LCD Part number!”

Wanhao Duplicator 9 – D9 – Technical ‘stuff’

 

Getting right into the guts of this thing, there’s a few basic discoveries

There’s two names on the market –

Monoprice MP Maker Pro Mk.1 is an alternate supplier of this printer – Externally they look identical!

Hardware

Main Board

wanhao-duplicator9-main-controller-board-3d-printer-01-1200x1200__15863.1528170270.1280.1280_1024x1024

Continue reading “Wanhao Duplicator 9 – D9 – Technical ‘stuff’”